The idea of visiting Neem Karoli Baba Kainchi Dham had never crossed my mind. Yet, when Robin casually suggested it, I found myself agreeing with childlike enthusiasm. This was a time of great personal turmoil, as my father was recovering from a stroke. Was it a much-needed escape or a deeper purpose guiding me?
I’ve never felt the urge to visit the ashram of a spiritual guru. Countless such spiritual gurus are doing commendable work in preserving the spirit of Sanatan Dharma.
Everything changed when Robin expressed his desire to visit Kainchi Dham, the ashram of Neeb Karori Baba or Neem Karoli Baba, often referred to as Maharaj Ji. I had seen glimpses of him on social media. There were transformation stories by visiting his ashram like Steve Jobs, Virat Kohli and Julia Roberts to name a few. While I don’t believe he is a human reincarnation of Shri Hanuman, He may be one of his many forms.
The journey begins
I arrived in New Delhi on Friday, 23rd August 2024, where my dear friend Mona Ji welcomed me. Despite our decade-long friendship, this was our first meeting in person. Reflecting on it now, this serendipity feels like a manifestation of divine blessings. It was overwheleming to finally see each other. We had spent countless hours talking on the phone yet words fell short during our time together.
After Mona Ji dropped me at my hotel, we said ‘Till we meet again,’ disguised as goodbyes. Robin joined me directly from work. We stayed the night in the hotel, ready to catch our early morning train to Kathgodam.
A Journey Interrupted
That morning, unlike the humid night before, was pleasant as we boarded the train, which departed for Kathgodam at 6:20 am as scheduled. However, our journey almost ended abruptly when I learned that my father’s condition had suddenly worsened. My mother encouraged me to continue, asking me to keep faith in Lord Hanuman Ji. Though it was a tough day for her, later in the afternoon, my house help joined her, and my father’s condition improved. It wasn’t until I returned home that I learned how dangerously close he had been to suffer another stroke.
A Pilgrimage Together
This was our first pilgrimage together, and I have a feeling that Robin and I are becoming pilgrimage buddies. Time flew and we spotted the cloud-covered hilltops signalling our arrival in Devbhumi, the Land of Gods, Uttarakhand.
My nostalgia
Stepping off the train, I felt the charm of the hilly railway station, a breath of humid yet fresh mountain air. Local taxi drivers intrupted my awe by eagerly trying to grab us as their passengers. We hired a shared WagonR to Kainchi Dham.
As we began the uphill drive, nostalgia for my trips to Bhutan, Sikkim, and Ladakh washed over me. It was overwhelming at first, but I was surprisingly mindful.
There were Cotton-like clouds across the skies, occasionally kissing the lush mountain peaks. We stopped for a tea break, with Robin craving ginger tea and me a strong cuppa. Near the mountain top, the clouds welcomed us, offering a breathtaking view that we couldn’t resist capturing. Our driver, a kind man, obliged our childlike excitement.
As we continued our journey, I remembered a long-forgotten poem I had written:
जब जब पहाड़ों पर जाता हूँ
खुद को थोड़ा सा वहीं छोड़ आता हूँ
ख्वाहिश है मेरी मिट्टी को पानी मे ना बहाना
मेरे हिस्से पहाड़ों मे हैं मुझे वहीं छोड़ आना
Which translates to:
Whenever I wander to the mountains high,
A piece of me I leave beneath the sky.
My wish is not for waters to claim my dust,
In the mountains where I belong, return me, if you must.”
In a constant state of awe, I thought of nature’s vastness and how small we are in comparison. I experienced the ebb and flow of my nostalgia, yet I brought myself back to the present.
The spiritual encounter
Around 3 pm, we reached Kainchi Dham. The place radiated spiritual energy. The temple is nestled near a beautiful mountain river, the only way to reach there was a small bridge. We quickly found a decent homestay nearby, took a bath, and headed straight to the temple.
Despite the long weekend, there was not much crowd, and within minutes, we were standing before Neem Karoli Baba’s idol. The priests allowed everyone to have a peaceful darshan, without rushing anyone. I found myself unable to pray, overwhelmed by gratitude for Hanuman Ji. This usually happens to me—I struggle to find words when I need to pray, a sensation that overwhelms my mind.
Neem Karoli Baba’s profound meditation
After the darshan, we found a small area where devotees meditate on Hanuman Chalisa or Sundarkand. Robin began reading the Sundarkand while I started chanting the Hanuman Chalisa, aiming to complete it at least 11 times. Within minutes, I was crying as if I had lost everything, yet I continued chanting. Tears flowed for a long time, and it wasn’t until I finished my last chant that I regained my composure. A new sensation of relief washed over me; my mind clear of thoughts. When I tried to stand, my feet were numb. Robin still had about 20 minutes left to finish the Sundarkand.
Weeks before our journey, I had been excited to buy books on Maharaj Ji and had kept telling Robin about it. I spotted a shop inside the campus and bought four books as if they might go out of print soon. They were also selling photos of Maharaj Ji, but for some reason, I didn’t buy any.
I decided to do darshan one more time, fearing that I hadn’t been able to offer my prayers properly. Within minutes, I was again standing before Maharaj’s idol. He was smiling, and I was numb.
I checked on Robin again—he was completing the Sundarkand. I decided to call my mother and Mona Ji on a video call to show them the temple from outside. Phones and cameras were prohibited inside. Interestingly, my phone had no reception from Kathgodam to Kainchi Dham, but now it was showing full 5G reception.
After the call, I went for darshan one more time and returned in the same state of mind as earlier. Robin completed Sundarkand.
Neem Karoli Baba’s Silent Aarti
The evening aarti at the temple was about to start, so we waited. It was a silent aarti, with no loud music or shout-outs—just the kind of ambience I love. Unlike other temples I had seen, there were no offerings of flowers, garlands, incense sticks, coconuts, or sweets. No wonder the temple’s premises were so clean.
Robin was feeling a bit under the weather, so we headed back to our homestay for some rest. Our room was on the third floor, with a beautiful view. The sound of the mountain river flowing, tall pine trees, and the blue skies made it a romantic balcony.
Later in the evening, we strolled through the local shops and had dinner. The award for the best food on the trip goes to the simple yet comforting dal-chawal. As I felt the cold mountain breeze on my skin, I knew we would need blankets at night.
The Journey Back
We slept early, planning to visit the temple one more time in the morning. However, we woke up to find the main road jam-packed with cabs and buses. Soon, all the hotels and homestays nearby were fully booked. I spotted many people bathing in the ice-cold river before visiting the temple. I felt grateful for the itinerary Robin had planned and to Neem Karoli Baba for making it a pleasant pilgrimage throughout.
With a long queue of devotees it was difficult to visit temple again. so we dropped another visit. We had our breakfast, bought prasad, checked out of the homestay, and hired a cab back to Kathgodam.
The weather in Kathgodam was drastically humid, making us uncomfortable for hours before we could board our train. I picked up some medication from a local pharmacy for Robin, as he was not feeling well. By the grace of Hanuman Ji, he started to feel better once we boarded.
Conclusion
Back in Delhi, we stayed the night in a hotel and parted ways early next morning, promising to meet again on our next pilgrimage. Robin shared his experience of reading the Sundarkand, and we both acknowledged a profound cry that neither of us could fully express.
Robin mentioned that it’s said of Neem Karoli Baba that you don’t need to ask for anything in your prayers because he already knows what’s in your heart. Hearing that resonated deeply with me and made sense of my overwhelming emotions during the visit.
I returned home with a lighter heart and newfound peace, feeling as though my soul is free of any weight.
Though I don’t yet fully understand the significance of why I felt called to visit Kainchi Dham, I do know that the experience left an indelible mark on my heart. The gentle reminder that faith, love, and gratitude are enough—without the need to ask for anything—has stayed with me. And perhaps, just perhaps, this journey was the beginning of a deeper spiritual awakening, one that will continue to unfold as I walk along the path of devotion.
This pilgrimage to Neem Karoli Baba was a break-this-pattern event, a gift of divine timing, and a reminder that sometimes, you don’t need to have all the answers. You just need to show up and trust that the universe has a plan far greater than your own.
Jai Shree Ram.
People Mentioned
Books about Neeb Karori Maharaj
- I and My Father Are One
- Miracle of Love
- Shri Siddhi Ma
- Whisper in the Heart: The Ongoing Presence of Neem Karoli Baba (Ram Dass, Maharajji, Hindu Spirituality)
Note: The two books in Hindi are only available in the Aashram’s store it seem and most books online are costlier than Aashram’s book store
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